We continue our journey behind the scenes of Moda & Servizi, to discover one by one the processes of craftsmanship that transform a simple fabric into an Italian high fashion garment, ready to be shown on catwalks around the world.
This time Carmen, responsible for marker making, cutting and developing sizes, tells us about her experiences
Hi everyone, my name is Carmen and my role in Moda & Servizi is to analyse the marker, that is, the paper design prepared and printed by the specialized pattern-maker, to proceed with the actual cutting of the fabrics, on the basis of the indications and technical details that are provided to me by the style office of fashion companies.
What are the main stages of your work?
First of all, I check that the fabric received from the customer does not present any imperfection, studying the details. I must also pay attention to the reference code of the material, which must correspond to the model to be made and to the placed print provided to me by the pattern-makers.
Once it is established that every detail is correct, I proceed by carefully depositing the marker over the fabric. In this way, I can make the shapes corresponding to the various parts of the garment: from the sleeve of a sweater, to the pocket of a trouser, tracing the outline with chalk.
Finally, I proceed with the cutting of the actual fabric, giving life to the different components of the first garment or prototype of a collection.
Where does your skill in handling fabrics come from?
I’ve always had a soft spot for tailoring and making fashion garments. A passion that comes from my family and that has been handed down from generation to generation: my grandfather and uncle dealt with the production of jackets and windbreakers. When I first started out, I ran to my grandfather to show him my achievements and I always learned something new thanks to his advice.
My family has been a great point of reference in determining the choice of my educational path and in encouraging my passions.
From a passion handed down in the family to a job that fully satisfies you every day.
Yes, contributing to the creation of a high fashion garment by cutting and developing sizes satisfies me today, to the point that I currently do not feel the need to deal with other aspects of this profession. The encouragement I received from my family pushed me to attend the school of pattern-making and size development with passion, starting to pursue this career. At the beginning of my specialization, I also felt the need to collaborate with a professional seamstress, to learn the techniques of working and cutting clothes directly from the hands of an expert.
It’s nice to learn about these details of the craft: what do you mean by “size development”?
Actually, these are daily terms for me, but I understand that for other people they are curious and completely unknown details.
In this phase of the work, called “size development”, I establish a sample size (usually M or 44) and from this base I create all the other measures: smaller or larger. When I was studying, the different sizes were made by hand, but now we only work with the computer!
Work and daily life: are there influences?
Certainly, I quickly pay attention to the most hidden details when I look at a garment displayed in a shop window. For example, if the squares of a jacket are not crossed in the correct way, I immediately notice: a garment that hasn’t been developed well has another finish and loses its value considerably.
I can say that attention to my profession also affects the daily choice of clothing that I choose for my children and my family.
At the same time, everyday life influences my work: if I notice a detail that clashes in a dress I see in a shop, I am even more careful when I get the chance to cut a fabric with the same features.
Moda & Servizi Ltd.